A Food & Drink Guide to Reykjavik
For most travellers, Iceland’s allure is centred around its vast swathes of otherworldly scenery. From barren, lunar-like lava fields and glacier-capped volcanoes to steaming geothermal springs and thundering waterfalls, few countries boast such an extraordinary concentration of jaw-dropping natural landmarks. Add the ethereal glow of the Northern Lights throughout much of the year and the warm, golden glow of the midnight sun in summer into the mix, and it’s easy to see why this rugged and remote (yet remarkably accessible) nordic nation is such a wildly popular bucket list destination.
There’s so much more to Iceland, though, than its raw, unspoilt nature. Reykjavik is often used merely as a convenient base at the start and end of an epic road trip around the island — but spending a day or two properly exploring the city will give you a totally different perspective on the country. It also doubles up as a worthy standalone destination in its own right as an alternative city break option; highly compact and walkable, but with more than enough to keep you occupied over a long weekend.
ROK serves up a fusion of traditional and modern Icelandic tapas-style plates
While strolling the streets of the world’s most northerly capital, or gazing down from the top of Hallgrímskirkja (the iconic Lutheran church), you’ll see some of the most vibrant, colourful architecture on display in any European city. There’s a plethora of intriguing museums, a thriving street art scene, a buzzing café culture and an abundance of green space, all underpinned by a laid-back, cosmopolitan ambience.
In recent years, it has also emerged as a flourishing culinary hub, home to an array of fabulous restaurants, food halls, bakeries and bars specialising in quirky cocktails and local craft beers. It’s not the cheapest of places to eat and drink, but with some careful planning, it’s entirely possible to have a great time in Reykjavik without breaking the bank.
Dive on in for a taste of Reykjavik’s must-visit food and drink hotspots, featuring so much more than traditional delicacies — skyr, lamb soup, dried fish and fermented shark — for which Icelandic cuisine is renowned.
Exquisite, Neapolitan-style pizza might not be among your expectations when visiting Iceland, but that’s exactly what you’ll find at Flatey Pizza in Reykjavik. There are two branches in the capital: the flagship restaurant on Grandagarður, near the Old Harbour, and another in Hlemmur Mathöll food hall in downtown. Made daily on-site using slow-rising organic sourdough, they’re blasted at 500°C to achieve a light but robust base with a satisfyingly chewy leopard-spotted crust, topped with richly flavoursome San Marzano tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella. As well as the classics, you’ll also find a variety of unorthodox combinations on the menu, such as the ‘Tartufo 2.0’, featuring thinly sliced Icelandic potatoes and truffle oil. Ranging from 1790 ISK (£10.92) to 3090 ISK (£18.86), the prices aren’t broadly in line with what you’d typically pay for a pizza in central London — and the quality is about as good as you’ll find outside of Italy.
Flatey Pizza is about as good a pizza as you’ll get outside of Italy
Like their Scandinavian cousins, Icelanders sure know how to bake a great pastry. As such, it comes as little surprise that Reykjavik is home to a handful of fantastic artisan bakeries, and few enjoy a reputation quite like Brauð & Co — earned not only for their products, but the instantly recognisable mural which adorns the exterior of its original store. Just a few steps away from Hallgrímskirkja, on Frakkastígur, it’s an essential stop when visiting the Icelandic capital, churning out sourdough breads, deliciously moreish cinnamon rolls and a whole host of other scrumptious pastries. Such is their success since launching in 2016 that they’ve opened up five more branches across the city, and another in nearby Kópavogur.
Brauð & Co’s pastries are just as amazing as the street art on its exterior
Rivalling Brauð & Co for the title of Reykjavik’s finest bakery, Sandholt, slap bang in the middle of Laugavegur, is a family-owned institution built on over a century of tradition, proudly upheld over five generations. Alongside traditional breads, cakes and pastries, expect to be overwhelmed by an array of handmade chocolates, macarons, ice creams, soups and sandwiches — plus freshly brewed coffee, natural wines and craft beers. Whether for a quick pit stop or a sit-down meal, Sandholt is a gem that deserves seeking out.
From authentic Vietnamese and Mexican street food to experimental twists on traditional Icelandic cuisine, this compact food hall brings together an eclectic mix of vendors inside what used to be Reykjavik’s main bus terminal. The tempura cod tacos at Fuego are a notable highlight, alongside Skál!’s herb-infused cocktails and innovative small plates with a heavy focus on foraged Icelandic ingredients. If you’re keen to try Icelandic lamb, Fjárhúsið is the place to go, balancing its rich, meaty offerings with delicate flavours of wild berries and herbs. There’s also a smaller branch of Flatey Pizza, a French-Icelandic fusion grill, a coffee bar and a gelato stand — and you can easily hop between them. With a relaxed, convivial atmosphere, reasonable prices and live music on weekends, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable place to hang out.
Delicious tacos from Fuego in Hlemmur Mathöll food hall
Housed within a former fish factory in the Old Harbour district, Grandi Mathöll opened in 2018, following on from the huge success of Hlemmur Mathöll. The concept is similar — renovating an old building to create a casual space for eating and drinking at reasonable prices, with the ability to mill about between a diverse variety of vendors. The slight contrast with Grandi Mathöll is that it’s a bit of a walk from the city centre, drawing more of a local crowd, and it has more of a post-industrial warehouse feel about it. Among the options here are Korean street food, Nepalese curries, pizza and pasta, fresh fish, and, as in Hlemmur Mathöll, a lamb-heavy Icelandic menu at Fjárhúsið.
Einstök Bar is one of the best places to drink Icelandic craft beer in Reykjavik
Brewed in Akureyri, in the far north of the country, Einstök’s popularity has soared over the past decade, not only becoming Iceland’s most ubiquitous craft beer, but making a significant dent in the international market as well. Their signature brew, Icelandic White Ale, is a classic Belgian Witbier infused with orange peel and coriander for a wonderfully crisp, refreshing taste, which you’ll find in virtually every Icelandic supermarket and liquor store. At the Einstök Bar on Laugavegur, it’s available on draught, alongside several other brews including a pale ale, a lager and a porter — all of which can be sampled on a tasting platter. Not a beer drinker? Fear not — there’s an extensive choice of Icelandic gins and vodkas to choose from, too. A cosy spot to retreat from the cold and enjoy a tipple indoors, it’s also a prime spot to sit outside in the summer months and watch life go by on Reykjavik’s liveliest street.
For an extensive choice of craft beer in a chilled out setting, look no further than Skúli. Tucked away in a corner of Víkurgarður square, between Tjörnin Lake and the Old Harbour, this timber-clad bar has an excellent variety of beers on tap and a rotating selection of over 130 cans and bottles, ranging from lagers and IPAs to fruity sours and chocolatey porters — mostly from Icelandic and Scandinavian brewers. Whatever your taste, you’ll almost certainly find what you’re looking for here. It’s not cheap, granted, but if you go before 7pm, you’ll be able to take advantage of happy hour discounts.
Ice cream might not be a national speciality, often shunned in favour of skyr (a thick, yoghurt-like dairy product widely consumed for breakfast and dessert), but head down to Valdís and you’ll be able to enjoy arguably the finest scoops in Iceland. Since launching in 2013, they’ve experimented with over 400 flavours, including some weird and wonderful specials such as rye bread, coconut and chilli, lava salt, and white chocolate and lavender, served either in a cone, a cup or, if you’re feeling indulgent, in a waffle. They also do vegan-friendly fruit sorbets, too. The original branch is on Grandagarður, just a short walk up the road from Flatey Pizza — the perfect post-dinner stop. Alternatively, stop by the Frakkastígur, a few steps away from Brauð & Co bakery.
Perhaps the most notorious Icelandic delicacy of all, hákarl (fermented shark), is renowned for its pungent, ammonia-rich aroma and highly acquired, fishy-cheesy taste. It’s one of those things that has developed a mythical, near-legendary status, rather than actually being a typical staple of the modern Icelandic diet — yet it seems to find its way into virtually every travel documentary about Iceland. If you’re feeling brave enough to try it yourself, Cafe Loki, just over the road from Hallgrímskirkja, is the place to go for an immersive cultural experience. They serve an Icelandic tasting platter which includes several cubes of fermented shark alongside harðfiskur (dried fish), buttered rye bread and a shot of Brennivín (a strong, caraway-flavoured Icelandic spirit). Besides foul-smelling rotten meat, Cafe Loki specialises in hearty, home-cooked classics such as plokkfiskur (Icelandic fish stew), lamb soup, steamed cod and open sandwiches with a range of traditional toppings.
Turf houses are an integral part of Iceland’s cultural heritage, offering trusty insulation from howling winds, harsh temperatures, and relentless rain and snow — but the ones that remain today are mostly found in rural areas. Take a stroll down Frakkastígur, in central Reykjavik, though, and you’ll find a fine example of this traditional architectural style that dates back to Iceland’s original settlement by the Vikings in the ninth century. ROK’s jet black, grass-roofed exterior conceals a sleek, contemporary interior; a seamless blend of old and new which is reflected in its menu of Icelandic tapas-style plates and extensive cocktail list. Think along the lines of Arctic char, quinoa and pomegranate salad, salmon ceviche, and cured reindeer with blue cheese, burned butter and almonds. If you struggle to choose, opt for the tasting menu. For fine dining without the pretentiousness or eye-watering prices of other high class establishments, it ticks every box. There’s even a daily champagne happy hour if you arrive between 4pm-7pm.
